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品牌战略之服装市场部分

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品牌战略之服装市场部分

随着欧盟经济的发展,各个欧洲国家之间的商业往来日益增多。多种文化正在交汇融合,大众之间的沟通联系也逐渐加强。随着这一过程而来的是,社会思维方式的改变和欧洲各国公民对彼此依赖性认识的增强。当然,经济全球化最重要的部分是,国际经济贸易的发展。

众所周知,欧洲各个成员国之间的发展并不同步。对于一些国家,包括波兰,加入欧盟是一次发展经济的机遇。要达到欧盟旧有成员国的经济发展水平,新的成员国需要采取多种举措;欧盟需要稳定的成员。对于大部分成员国来说,既要努力提高其经济的竞争力、现代化水平和产品的质量,又要努力推行欧盟的新法规,还有组建能够恰当、正确地监督经济运行状况的机构,或增强现有机构的功能。

对一个互相融合的欧盟,经济全球化会提出种种挑战;对一个想要建立、保持竞争性的欧盟,经济全球化也会提出挑战。仅仅对邻国带来的经济威胁或机遇保持警觉是远远不够的,必须对全球经济环境的变化时刻作出反应。随着欧盟市场的自由准入,其成员国在20世纪90年代的前5年获得了发展经济的大好机遇。毫无疑问,这种机遇是对所有行业而言的,而不仅仅限于制衣业。波兰一度很繁荣的制衣业,今天的境况截然不同。除了少数还能在新环境下良好运转的公司外,今天的波兰市场上的主流已经是强有竞争力的外国企业。那些在“灰色地带”里运作,靠生产盗版、伪冒外国品牌的公司的境况就更不用提了。太有必要找出波兰在世界市场上的分工,并运用现代盈销手段。

对于将整个波兰的制衣业整合到欧盟这一举措的范围和动态变化来说,欧盟制衣业的重组,尤其是欧盟成员国以外制造业的重新定位,这两个过程有着非同寻常的重要性。欧盟对波兰轻工业产品的定单刺激了波兰的出口,使波兰轻工业制品出口在1993年开始增加,并在20世纪90年代后期上升到了一个稳定的层次。但是,由同种刺激也使波兰经济对欧盟顾客产生了深深的依赖,尤其是波兰的制衣业。

自1998年起,波兰的轻工业产品得以不征关税、不受配额限制地进入欧盟市场;从1999年起,在欧盟成员国组成的工业制品自由贸易区内,波兰的轻工业产品已经完全成为了有竞争力的进口商品。

值得强调的是,受到“低成本国家”竞争的威胁,欧盟的纺织品制造商已经将其产品提到了经济链中更高的层次。在这个层次上,消费者乐意为制造商生产产品的创新性、设计的趣味性、终身保质而付出更高的价钱。通过这种方式,这些制造商就可以避免发生在经济链底端的价格大战。欧盟的企业已经彻底将产品的生产过程移到了低劳动力成本的国家,而他们则集中精力于品牌构建和紧紧追赶时尚潮流上。到现在为止,市场并未要求波兰的企业也做出同样的举动,但波兰加入欧盟这一举措,将使波兰的企业不得不也这样做。2004年3月在Poznan举行的国际商品展览会期间实施的一项旨在确定制衣商是否以及如何使用品牌战略的研究表明,大部分制衣厂商都未运用这一战略。销售部门的职员们将他们在展览会上露面的原因仅仅归结为他们想将自己的产品展示给顾客。他们不知道自己公司的形象是什么,也不清楚公司是否有什么个性特征。与品牌战略有关的大部分问题他们都不理解。

波兰制衣业的典型特征是除了一些主要品牌之外,大量存在的都是毫不知名的企业。不幸的是,这种状况还将持续下去。哪个品牌能从这些杂七杂八的牌子中脱颖而出,哪个品牌就能受到欢迎。

译文:Brand strategy in the clothing and textile market(2)

Brand strategy and the clothing branch

Economic development in a united Europe has resulted in a great number of commercial connections between European countries, and that means the joining and mixing of different cultures and the consolidation of mass communications. The result of this process is the change in social thinking, and a greater sense of mutual dependence between the citizens of Europe. But the most important part of this globalisation is, of course, the development of the international economy.

As we all know, not all the countries have developed at the same speed; For some of them, joining the EU will be a chance to a economical success; this will include Poland among others. In order to reach the present state of development of the current members of the EU, many actions need to be focused on improving the competitivenes, modernisation and quality of manufacturing, but also on introducing the union regulations; and on creating and enhancing institutions which will supervise the functioning of the economy correctly and appropriately.

Globalisation in integrated Europe causes many challenges, and so in order to build and maintain competitive advantages. It is necessary to constantly react to changes in the global environment, because simple monitoring of the threats and opportunities in the immediate neighbourhood is no longer enough. Together with the liberalised access to the EU markets, the second half of the 1990s brought vast opportunities for dgnamic development of trade with the member states. Undoubtedly this was appearent in a difficult economical situation, with the exception of just a few companies, which have managed well in the new reality, we mainly have strong foreign companies on the market, not to mention enterprises operating in the grey zone, which are characterised by smuggling products and forging logos. Therefore, it is so important to define our segment and use modern marketing methods.

The restructuring process in the clothing industry in the EU, and especially the relocation of manufacturing process outside the member states, were of key importance for the dynamics and the scale of integration of the whole Polish clothing industry to increase its output starting from 1993, and led to stabilisation of sales in the late 1990s. However, the same processes produced strong economic dependence, mainly of Polish clothing manufuctures, on the EU customers.

Since 1998, the light industry in Poland has enjoyed unobstructed access to the EU market without customs duties or quotas, and since 1999 it has been fully exposed to competing imports from the member states within the established free trading zone of industrial goods.

It is worth stressing that EU producers of textiles, threatened by competitors in the “low-cost countries”, have moved their products to higher market segments. In this way, they try to avoid price wars in the lowest market segment, while maintaining their mark ups in segments where customers accept higher prices for innovation, interesting designs, and quality finishing. The EU enterprises have thoughtfully relocated their production to countries with cheaper labour costs, yet they are focused on brand building and catching up with the fashion trends. Until now, the market has not been able to demand similar behavior of Polish enterprises, but the country’s accession to the European Union may create such an effect.

The results of research carried out during the International Fair in Poznan in March 2004, aimed at determining whether, and if so how the clothing companies use brand strategy, showed that most of them do not employ such a strategy. The staff of marketing departments merely indicated their present at the Fair as their main action of presenting themselves to the customers. They could not say what the company’s image is, or if their company has a personality. Most questions connected with brand strategy were not understood by them.

A characteristic feature of the clothing industry in Poland is that besides some leading brands, plenty of anonymous companies existed, and unfortunately this situation will continue to develop. One of the brands which sticks out from this crows, and which has gained popularity.

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